I know squat about surfing, but I do know it has been getting more popular along the Oregon Coast over the last couple decades, and I've noticed that it's often on the south sides of major headlands. A woman I know- though I can't remember who- was dating a man who came to this spot, south of Devils Punchbowl, frequently. I'm guessing here, but my suspicion is that longshore drift, which is often north to south along the coast, moves sand away from the headland, deepening the water and allowing larger waves to get closer to shore before breaking. The headland may also serve as a wind break- the winds were powerfully gusty, but generally from the north on this day. I almost lost my cap a few times. I imagine such gusts would not be appreciated when one is trying to balance on water.